Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Posts Tagged ‘tarifa

What happened in the woods this winter pt. 1

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No more bouldering for this year. Time to get back on a rope. But what a winter of great bouldering. Helechal is a socialable space to boulder and met people from all over Spain. First up were some powerful people from Madrid. They’re leading 8c so they had a bit of power and stamina but were apparently a bit new to bouldering. I took them around a few of my dream projects. The lines I’m going to do when I get stronger 😉 Here’s the vid of them crushing or a least getting ready to crush some of my dreams….. But one thing these guys showed me was the heal. They were putting in heal hooks everywhere. I’ve been trying to do the same ever since.

 

 

 

Written by Journo

May 11, 2012 at 3:07 pm

Redpoint of Mako Blaster 7a, Los Buitres, San Bartolo.

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So pleased to get this route in the bag. It’s one of those short bouldery routes with easy moves around a really hard crux. The grade for the these short bouldery routes always represents the one hard move. Whereas on longer routes the crux can be much easier especially on stamina/endurance routes.

But on Mako Blaster it really is a one move 7a. So it packs all its punch into that one move. And it is a move!! Personally I feel it is a hard 6A+/ 6B boulder move. But it always feels so different when you are climbing with a rope rather than away from a mat.

I’ve fallen off it twice in the past, just to pull straight back on and do it easily. But this time I actually changed my approach and really looked up at the actual crux itself and visualised how I would do it before I left the ground. This small mental effort made a really big difference. Once up there it all flowed and I got the sequence easily, even if the move still felt hard.

Written by Journo

August 5, 2011 at 12:38 pm