Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Posts Tagged ‘san bartolo

Outclimbed by Bernabé Fernández of Chilam Balam fame.

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So I’m climbing in the easiest area of San Bartolo with my girlfriend Katja and her cousin from Switzerland.  A man arrived after us with his pretty girlfriend who was a beginner. He seemed vaguely familiar but I couldn’t place him. Every time I finished a route he came over and climbed a route next to me much better. I did harder and harder routes and the guy did them more and more easily. So I head towards the hardest route I’ve ever done. Dandy Con Laprones in Habitacion a 7a. I’m pretty confident he won’t be following me up this one, I thought. I struggle up, making lots of grunting noises have one fall but finally make it. The guy strolls over and asks if I’ve finished. ‘Uh yes. You are going to try it’ I say incredulously. ‘Yes I think I will give it a try’. He climbs it with stunning ease and then continues without stopping up another route above which is even harder a 7a+. When he comes down I congratulate him and ask him what is the hardest route he has done on sight. He tries to hide a smirk and gives me a grade which makes him one of the best climbers in the World. It is then that I place his face and realise that it is him on the cover of the main guide book for Andulacia doing the hardest route in the world !!!

To be fair to me…. He was a really humble guy and not at all flashy and he was climbing 4b and 5+ and then a 6b and then finally the 7a and 7a+ extension. But his technique was super awesome and he did every move with a new twist or movement which was like a masterclass for me. I’ve seen a guy doing the 8b next to Lamprones and watched him climb Dandy as well. His technique wasn’t as good as Barnabe. Oh and of course on the big question of whether he did Chilam Balam. For sure, the guys a climbing genius 🙂

 

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Written by Journo

August 15, 2011 at 12:35 pm

Redpoint of Mako Blaster 7a, Los Buitres, San Bartolo.

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So pleased to get this route in the bag. It’s one of those short bouldery routes with easy moves around a really hard crux. The grade for the these short bouldery routes always represents the one hard move. Whereas on longer routes the crux can be much easier especially on stamina/endurance routes.

But on Mako Blaster it really is a one move 7a. So it packs all its punch into that one move. And it is a move!! Personally I feel it is a hard 6A+/ 6B boulder move. But it always feels so different when you are climbing with a rope rather than away from a mat.

I’ve fallen off it twice in the past, just to pull straight back on and do it easily. But this time I actually changed my approach and really looked up at the actual crux itself and visualised how I would do it before I left the ground. This small mental effort made a really big difference. Once up there it all flowed and I got the sequence easily, even if the move still felt hard.

Written by Journo

August 5, 2011 at 12:38 pm

Dandy con Lamparones 7a, San Bartolo

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This is a short and bouldery 7a which I got second go. The first go I went too far right which is almost another route and much much harder. Maybe 7a+. The actual route is fair for the grade and gives sustained climbing for it’s short length.

However, it’s all on the fingers so it moves into power endurance near the end as you never really get a break.

You can find it on the Dandy wall opposite Habitación at San Bartolo. The route Sara 6B is hard for the grade on the left of Dandy and is a three star warm up before a try.

Written by Journo

July 1, 2011 at 3:02 pm

Redpoint of Toda por la tapia 7a, Vudu Wall, San Bartolo.

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Got a smooth redpoint of a short power endurance 7a at San Barolo. First attempt tried to on-site it but totally blew my fingers on the third clip which is quite power sapping. My subsequent goes were all too weak and I couldn’t link it all together. The route also has a nice little sting in the tail with a final move which requires the placement of the feet on two very high and very small 5mm edges, before a scrunched up reach up for a finishing jug.

Andy, my regular climbing partner, took it easy on his first go up and hung on every bolt, checking out the moves without blowing his strength and then stormed it on his second go!! I was happy for him and gutted for me!!

So despite a hangover from my wifes’ birthday party and bad guts I dragged the whole family up there for another go and did it easily. The whole route felt great and not too hard.

Written by Journo

March 16, 2010 at 12:23 pm

Alligator 6c+ redpoint

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Finally nailed Alligator an awesome short power route on Vudu wall. It’s really overhanging and as soon as you leave the ground it’s pumpy power moves. The crux is getting tucked into a really tight drop knee and then reaching up off a so so undercut for the side cut above. It feels really strenuous and while I felt controlled I didn’t feel I could have hung there any longer before I got it. After that, there are only really small footholds and  a big reach for the jug on the right. Then one last rock up and it’s really all over. Just de pump to the top.

Written by Journo

March 2, 2010 at 2:44 pm