Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Posts Tagged ‘climbing

Day’s of Power – how to have them and how to avoid an injury!

leave a comment »

I had a day of power yesterday. I felt light and every hold felt large and positive. I felt I could climb anything. Projects were dispatched with ease and I felt a huge reservoir of power.

The last time I felt this excess of strength I did two 7A boulder problems and a 7B problem which had been eluding me for months and it felt easy. But  I injured myself in the process and strained a tendon in my left index finger and my right pinkie. I was so pumped up that I didn’t really notice until the next day. The lesson I learnt is that muscles have a Day of Power, but tendons don’t. Tendons (for the thousandth time) take much longer to get strong than muscles. But when I was pulling on a two finger half pad pocket on the 7B and felt light. I had forgotten that.

But yesterday I remembered it. So I didn’t charge down to my projects and start ripping myself apart. I had a great day felt like a god but kept it mortal for the sake of the tendons, which have only just recovered 🙂

However for those who wish to ignore my warning regarding Day’s of Power here are the secret tricks. But you have been warned. My Day’s of Power always come after a couple of months of intense climbing where I can feel that I am over-climbing a bit and starting to ache. I then take a five days off and do one good day of climbing. But not exhausting. Then another five days without climbing. I don’t drink for a few days before and sleep really well. I didn’t do any other exercise apart from some yoga and antagonistic exercises like push ups etc. Then you will be ready. Basically exercise the opposite of your climbing muscles but leave the climbing guns alone for a few days.

Oh and eat plenty the night before and on the day itself never get hungry. Keep snacking so that body is full of the good stuff. Oh and a bit of protein at lunch seemed to help if you are climbing in the afternoon.

That’s what works for me:)

Advertisements

Written by Journo

August 31, 2011 at 10:39 am

Outclimbed by Bernabé Fernández of Chilam Balam fame.

leave a comment »

So I’m climbing in the easiest area of San Bartolo with my girlfriend Katja and her cousin from Switzerland.  A man arrived after us with his pretty girlfriend who was a beginner. He seemed vaguely familiar but I couldn’t place him. Every time I finished a route he came over and climbed a route next to me much better. I did harder and harder routes and the guy did them more and more easily. So I head towards the hardest route I’ve ever done. Dandy Con Laprones in Habitacion a 7a. I’m pretty confident he won’t be following me up this one, I thought. I struggle up, making lots of grunting noises have one fall but finally make it. The guy strolls over and asks if I’ve finished. ‘Uh yes. You are going to try it’ I say incredulously. ‘Yes I think I will give it a try’. He climbs it with stunning ease and then continues without stopping up another route above which is even harder a 7a+. When he comes down I congratulate him and ask him what is the hardest route he has done on sight. He tries to hide a smirk and gives me a grade which makes him one of the best climbers in the World. It is then that I place his face and realise that it is him on the cover of the main guide book for Andulacia doing the hardest route in the world !!!

To be fair to me…. He was a really humble guy and not at all flashy and he was climbing 4b and 5+ and then a 6b and then finally the 7a and 7a+ extension. But his technique was super awesome and he did every move with a new twist or movement which was like a masterclass for me. I’ve seen a guy doing the 8b next to Lamprones and watched him climb Dandy as well. His technique wasn’t as good as Barnabe. Oh and of course on the big question of whether he did Chilam Balam. For sure, the guys a climbing genius 🙂

 

Written by Journo

August 15, 2011 at 12:35 pm

Redpoint of Mako Blaster 7a, Los Buitres, San Bartolo.

leave a comment »

So pleased to get this route in the bag. It’s one of those short bouldery routes with easy moves around a really hard crux. The grade for the these short bouldery routes always represents the one hard move. Whereas on longer routes the crux can be much easier especially on stamina/endurance routes.

But on Mako Blaster it really is a one move 7a. So it packs all its punch into that one move. And it is a move!! Personally I feel it is a hard 6A+/ 6B boulder move. But it always feels so different when you are climbing with a rope rather than away from a mat.

I’ve fallen off it twice in the past, just to pull straight back on and do it easily. But this time I actually changed my approach and really looked up at the actual crux itself and visualised how I would do it before I left the ground. This small mental effort made a really big difference. Once up there it all flowed and I got the sequence easily, even if the move still felt hard.

Written by Journo

August 5, 2011 at 12:38 pm

Tangerine 6C+

leave a comment »

I tried this line for about five months over last Summer. Maybe longer. It’s really really thin with micro edges and small lumps for the feet. It’s not much better for the hands. It starts with a jump up to a slopper and then trends upwards and right along a line of small crimps and slopping holds to the end where you find a “medio bueno” (spanish for half ok) hold on the lip. Then to finish you have to do a really hard heal hook rockover for a great hold much further back.

The line might be harder than 6C+ but I haven’t done enough boulders at this difficulty to say.  I think shorter climbers will find it harder reaching between the holds and footholds. But awesome moves all the same and really required a step up in my technique on both body position and feet to send it.

Written by Journo

July 26, 2011 at 2:04 pm

Dandy con Lamparones 7a, San Bartolo

leave a comment »

This is a short and bouldery 7a which I got second go. The first go I went too far right which is almost another route and much much harder. Maybe 7a+. The actual route is fair for the grade and gives sustained climbing for it’s short length.

However, it’s all on the fingers so it moves into power endurance near the end as you never really get a break.

You can find it on the Dandy wall opposite Habitación at San Bartolo. The route Sara 6B is hard for the grade on the left of Dandy and is a three star warm up before a try.

Written by Journo

July 1, 2011 at 3:02 pm

Tambore del Diablo 7a (redpoint)

leave a comment »

This is a route with a really hard crux move. The rest is quite easy. But moving up to the crux the holds get suddenly much smaller and really crimpy. The actual crux is quite sustained as you have to move around on some small footholds to get the correct angle on the holds. It’s super technical but enjoyable trying to get the sequence. The actual move I have tried a few times on a top rope but always found too hard. You have to move up using a really small one centimetre crimp lay away for the left hand for a rounded horizontal pinch quite a long way up and to the right. Then get your feet up for the finish of the crux move with a delicate reach up for a good hold. It gets easier but the final move to the next clip are quite delicate and actually require the use of dodgy smear with some distance above the last bolt. So it keeps up the value for quite a while. The end is then easy.

I pre-cliped the first and second bolt. The first bolt is totally useless and just sits at chest level when you are standing on the starting block. The second bolt is situated so that if you fell clipping it you would be impaled on a rocky spike and suffer a spectacular injury resulting in a broken back and probably irreparable internal/external injuries.

The route has been graded 6c+ for a long time but the latest guide has it as 7a. The other person to do it on 8a.nu who has also done 7c found it very hard for a 6c+. So I feel 7a is accurate.

Written by Journo

June 8, 2010 at 9:15 am

Posted in San Bartolo

Tagged with ,

El Club de los escaladores muertos – 6b+ – on sight

leave a comment »

This is a great route at El Bujeo. Big holds with massive reaches and good foot holds.  The route is obvious so it is just thugging up the rib until you run out of holds and that’s the crux. The hardest move is just a big open handed pinch on the rip and step up on big foot holds. Soft for the grade which is strange as every other route there is hard for the grade? Well it maybe that big pulls are my speciality.

El Club de los escaladroes muertos 6b+

The 6c+ to the right is fierce for the grade Historia Triste. It has three distincly hard moves. It has a Font 6B boulder move start with loads of small crimpy lay away moves and foot movements. Then  onto a rest and then a Font 5+ traverse move using a dodgy pinch and a swing, before a sort off balance rest cramped under the roof and then a Font 6A mantle shelf past the lower off for the finish. Fell off the mantle last time I tried. Any route which has the hardest move at the end is always a quality outing!! Apparently it is 6a+ if you miss the boulder move start. But I tried this and think it is a good 6b+. In my opinion the whole route is a safe 7a or more. Definitely the hardest route to link that I’ve tried.  But maybe I’ll downgrade it once I’ve done it ;).

Historia Triste 6c+ (allegedly!!)

Written by Journo

June 3, 2010 at 2:08 pm