Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for the ‘endurence’ Category

Falling practice

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I am back doing endurance as I have done my three weeks of bouldering and I can feel my muscles getting stronger than my ligaments. So back to mosaico and los buitress for some real routes. I decided to kick off by taking Dave Macleod’s advice of doing some fall practice every time you climb. So on the first time on No es broma a 6b on Mosaico wall I climbed to above fifth bolt and fell onto the fourth three times. On the last pulling up a bit of slack for a bit of extra air time. First time took a bit to let go but did get used to it. Dave reckons that until you find falling boring you’re still scared of it!!

I’m always suprised by how gentle the catch is on falls. It seems the longer it is the more stretch the rope has and the softer the landing. The only bad part is the swing in which hurt my toes at bit. But that was probably because Amy was attached to a tree so her not being dragged up the cliff didn’t soften the blow!

Here is the man himself taking a monster whipper on an E11 right on the last move. Awesome!!

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Written by Journo

May 7, 2010 at 8:02 am

Endurence challange

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I finished my endurence phase over a week ago and have had a week off before starting my power phase. However, my climbing partner is obsessing about an overhanging endurence sector called Mosaico in Tarifa so i’m back there this Thursday for an endurence fest. I personally think a good three week power session will help my endurance more in the term. So i’ll be working power on the other two days this week and for the next three weeks. This is a cool video of Chris Sharma on a 35 metre endurence fest in Spain. He fails but it’s inspiring that these guys really push it until failure rather than hanging on a quickdraw when they get tired!!!

Written by Journo

October 19, 2009 at 2:20 pm

Tabata protocol with light finger rolls

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 Got my burntillburn bar hanging from my wall. I rest my heels on the floor and start 20 second intervals with my palms towards me. Only made 4 sets which is just two minutes before i was in total agony and couldn’t continue. Ridiculously intense. The ten second interval for rest is only enough to get off the bar, shake your arms and get back on it. Ridiculous!! Next time I will do the turns slower as i really want to get to 8 reps of this in a set. Palms facing away just hurt my elbows too much and didn’t give me the same burn. The intervals only got really hard and worked when i had my palms towards me.

Written by Journo

October 9, 2009 at 12:05 pm