Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for the ‘injuries’ Category

Day’s of Power – how to have them and how to avoid an injury!

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I had a day of power yesterday. I felt light and every hold felt large and positive. I felt I could climb anything. Projects were dispatched with ease and I felt a huge reservoir of power.

The last time I felt this excess of strength I did two 7A boulder problems and a 7B problem which had been eluding me for months and it felt easy. But  I injured myself in the process and strained a tendon in my left index finger and my right pinkie. I was so pumped up that I didn’t really notice until the next day. The lesson I learnt is that muscles have a Day of Power, but tendons don’t. Tendons (for the thousandth time) take much longer to get strong than muscles. But when I was pulling on a two finger half pad pocket on the 7B and felt light. I had forgotten that.

But yesterday I remembered it. So I didn’t charge down to my projects and start ripping myself apart. I had a great day felt like a god but kept it mortal for the sake of the tendons, which have only just recovered 🙂

However for those who wish to ignore my warning regarding Day’s of Power here are the secret tricks. But you have been warned. My Day’s of Power always come after a couple of months of intense climbing where I can feel that I am over-climbing a bit and starting to ache. I then take a five days off and do one good day of climbing. But not exhausting. Then another five days without climbing. I don’t drink for a few days before and sleep really well. I didn’t do any other exercise apart from some yoga and antagonistic exercises like push ups etc. Then you will be ready. Basically exercise the opposite of your climbing muscles but leave the climbing guns alone for a few days.

Oh and eat plenty the night before and on the day itself never get hungry. Keep snacking so that body is full of the good stuff. Oh and a bit of protein at lunch seemed to help if you are climbing in the afternoon.

That’s what works for me:)

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Written by Journo

August 31, 2011 at 10:39 am

Injury Free

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I once read in a book called “feng shui your life” that when things are going well you shouldn’t be afraid to say, things are going well and fear that doom would befall you. So without fear of jinxing myself with immediate injury I can say I AM INJURY FREE and feel good about it. Not a tweak in any fingers, elbows or shoulders, lower back or knees. I feel good. So far I believe that periodisation is helping with a 3 weeks of power, two weeks of endurance and then a week of rest. The changing pattern seems to place stresses on different parts without causing repetitive strain injuries. I’m also swinging between home wall, turntillburn, and real rock. Perhaps the other major change is my now obsessive antagonistic training with the metolius hand grip exerciser and reverse wrist curls and shoulder rotary cuff exercises.

Written by Journo

February 16, 2010 at 3:12 pm

starting to load the pinky

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Just read on another blog, http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/ where he quotes from a medical document saying that you should start to slowly load up injured fingers so that they regain strength otherwise you are simply creating a weak scar which is only designed to be as strong as the stuff it has been doing. So if you take months off climbing to allow a full heal of a finger you will have a pully strong enough to type and open a door. So he recommends in his experience loading it slowely during the healing process so it knows to adapt to heavier use. So in light of this, I’m going to start light training this week.

Written by Journo

July 7, 2009 at 2:36 pm

Posted in injuries

powerball

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Bought a powerball sometime ago and have started building up my score. I’m on 11817 at the moment which is OK but feel I need to break through 12k to feel respectable. Gives me a massive pump, especially in my thumb muscle and leaves my forearms feeling used. I also fail to get anywhere near my previous high mark after i have been using it too many days in a row which shows that it needs rest days and that i am becoming stronger. Albeit, at powerball and maybe not climbing. Although there are posts saying that it has helped their climbing. However, it does make my wrist feel a lot better and keeps all the fingers loose and lubricated, which has to be good. I also believe that for endurence just having a pump in my forearm has to help my ability to resist lactic acid. But I’ll report back when I next climb if i notice any powerball effect.

Written by Journo

July 7, 2009 at 2:00 pm

Posted in antagonistic, injuries

The best post on A2 pulley injuries

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I’ve found the best page on a2 pulley injuries. This is concise and tells you as it is with a really great program for returning to climbing. http://www.nicros.com/archive/A2_pulley_injury.cfm

I’m going to have to take a little break from climbing and come back to it after a month. In the meantime I’m going to do loads of antagonistic exercises like brench preses, butterflys etc and step up the aerobic exercises. So when I return to climbing i’m lighter with a better heart!!

Written by Journo

June 26, 2009 at 10:03 pm

Posted in injuries

Anatomy of the hand

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Every time i research a hand injury i’m left a little in the dark due to the heavy use of technical terms. The following images are the best i’ve found to help illustrate the hands anatomy. The metacarpals are inside the palm and the promimal phalagnes are the first bit of finger etc.

Second bit of trouble i have is over the different name of joints and this illustration was great for those.

Written by Journo

June 26, 2009 at 7:33 pm

Posted in injuries

Wrist tendonitis

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I have had pain in the top of my wrist and base of my palm for about six weeks now. It came on after trying to redpoint a 6c+ called alligator on Vudu wall. The crux move requires a large reach off a semi undercut/side cut which puts a lot of pressure on the wrist to hold the hand in place. Hurt my wrist but i kept on doing it. No real injury just on going pain. I have had some trouble looking at whether it is carpal tunnel syndrome which is apparently present in at least 10% of climbers or simple tendonitis.

So the main difference is that i have no numbness or great loss of strength. So I do not believe it is carpal tunnel syndrome. It does hurt more when i use it more, so I’m guessing it is tendonitis. Used to get the same thing in my elbows when i was younger. I have started doing stretching exercises for the wrist and fingers and doing dumbell exercises to strengthen the antagonistic muscles on the other side of the wrist. Here are the exercises i found.

Written by Journo

June 25, 2009 at 10:18 am

Posted in injuries