Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for the ‘holidays’ Category

Bouldering in Albarracin

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Oh wow. How good a holiday can one man have and my wife and children loved it as well. I have never been to Fontainebleau so cannot compare. But the place has so many different sectors all within walking distance and all crammed with different shaped boulders all of different grades and character than it is impossible to walk more than a minute through the forest without spotting a line which calls out to be climbed. There really are boulders and lines of every character and it is like being in a climbers sweatshop. I just had the best time ever. Overhanging prows, upward trending travers following a sloping ledge, (coincidently my favourite climbing), beast rockovers on sloping top outs, off balance lean aways on sloping blocks with tiny incut foot holds. Just so many great moves and fantastic pulls. The weather was amazing, with loads of blue skys and a few snow flakes, but warm enough (about 10) to wear a tee shirt for the problems. The town itself is a medieval town trapped in amber. It is something waiting for an army of orcs to attack it, surrounded by walls, cliffs and a river its something out of a Lord of the Rings book. The province is even called Aragon which is either the name of one of the heroes or pretty close.

My wife and one of our boys on the totally unsafe metre wide walkway between turrets. The one in the background was featured in the Dosage V video.

The town is also only about four km from the bouldering. So it is super easy to get there and back. Here is a picture of our hotel which was fantastic. Really friendly family run place. Casa de Santiago and right in the centre of town next to the restaurants and bars.

Our hotel

The bouldering was great, but the grades were all over the place. They are just a guide as to problems. But there are a lot of 5 from 5- to 5+ which are so hard as to be nearer 6b. Most of the 6a and 6a+ I did were easier than a lot of the 5’s I did. Or in one case tried but it was so fierce I stayed away for fear of injury. The following problem is a 6a+ in Arrastrado sector. If you top out half way it is 6a. This is one of the problems which felt easier than than many of the 5’s. However the full traverse felt very hard for 6a+!

Sit down start with small but positive foot holds and on quite positive slopers..

So far so easy with a slightly tricky move up to the left hand crimper.

the right hand hold isn't good and the footholds get smaller.

the build up for crux. Off the rubbish left hand hold and going for the slopper with not much for the feet.

slopper on right hand and need to get established on that right arete. Didn't make it on my first go and had to rush off to sector Sol to meet friends. Definitely one for next time!


Written by Journo

April 5, 2010 at 8:08 am

Bouldering in blocs de columbiere

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This is an awesome place between Annecy and Chamonix. Hundreds of unpolished limestone boulders in a beautiful moutain setting. They all have numbers which you can find in the guidebook sold in local tourists offices. The bigger boulders have bolts on top to attach a top rope to. I went without a top rope or a crash pad and it made every boulder feel like a solo. But it was still a great place to visit. I kept myself to the easiest I could find as I’m going to take the advice this time and ease my fingers back in rather than going all out for another injury!

Rufus building up for the lunge.

Rufus building up for the lunge.

Written by Journo

September 14, 2009 at 10:26 am