Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for the ‘El Bujeo’ Category

El Club de los escaladores muertos – 6b+ – on sight

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This is a great route at El Bujeo. Big holds with massive reaches and good foot holds.  The route is obvious so it is just thugging up the rib until you run out of holds and that’s the crux. The hardest move is just a big open handed pinch on the rip and step up on big foot holds. Soft for the grade which is strange as every other route there is hard for the grade? Well it maybe that big pulls are my speciality.

El Club de los escaladroes muertos 6b+

The 6c+ to the right is fierce for the grade Historia Triste. It has three distincly hard moves. It has a Font 6B boulder move start with loads of small crimpy lay away moves and foot movements. Then  onto a rest and then a Font 5+ traverse move using a dodgy pinch and a swing, before a sort off balance rest cramped under the roof and then a Font 6A mantle shelf past the lower off for the finish. Fell off the mantle last time I tried. Any route which has the hardest move at the end is always a quality outing!! Apparently it is 6a+ if you miss the boulder move start. But I tried this and think it is a good 6b+. In my opinion the whole route is a safe 7a or more. Definitely the hardest route to link that I’ve tried.  But maybe I’ll downgrade it once I’ve done it ;).

Historia Triste 6c+ (allegedly!!)

Written by Journo

June 3, 2010 at 2:08 pm