Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for the ‘San Bartolo’ Category

Bosque2 topos

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Due to a request from Alcaidesa boulder Giacomo I have finally found the motivation to start putting up some of the boulder topos I have taken of the Bosque2 area of San Bartolo. Andy has also opened up some new boulder problems here and I will post up topos of his new boulders later.

Firstly here are some of the classic lines from the first part of this area. The first boulder everybody finds here is 9mm. Here is the line.

Next up are two really nice short problems on the boulder just up from 9mm. They are both really good problems. The second one has a long reach and might be a bit harder for the shorter.

Written by Journo

May 21, 2010 at 7:51 am

El Bosque 2 session

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There are a few nice little problems in this area with good quality rock.  On the El Bosque map numbers 4 and 15 were the first to drop on-sight at 5+ and 6a respectively. Number 4 is really easy and number 15 which is called 9mm wasn’t the best warm up as you have to pull off the ground and surge up for a crimp. But while I had a bit of strain holding the crimp it was actually really easy. It was only the cold fingers complaining. Number’s 1 and 2 which are 6a+ and 6a are both great problems. I am gifted with long arms but Andy who was bouldering with me had to put in a lot more effort to reach them. So soft touches for the long armed hard for shorties.

El Bosque 2 in San Barolo.

The best looking problem in number 5 which is 6b but felt much harder. Could start it and see how to finish it but haven’t done it. Looks really hard for the grade. This is on my tick list for my next power session in a weeks time. We had a look at number 9 which for 6c looks hard although on 8a.nu people have put it down as soft.  Maybe it is soft but 6c soft still looks hard to me!

Written by Journo

February 16, 2010 at 3:05 pm

Session in Caos

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Nailed a tricky little problem in Caos sector near Armonica in San Bartolo called Putita which translated means little cunt. Nice. It starts in a pit almost on your back underneath a prow of rock and then you have to work yourself out of the pit with holds on the left of the prow until you surge out for a jug on the lip. With the jug in hand it’s a rockover on a crappy hold for the finishing holds. Took a few go’s but was really quite nice. Good rock and an uncertain finish. Putita 6a. You can see it on the map below of the caos sector at number 12.

Caos Sector in San Barolo.

Written by Journo

February 16, 2010 at 2:50 pm

Bouldering campaign begins

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Spain is full of boulders and Tarifa has quite a few of the good ones. Started off with the following maps of the zones Bosque and Caos near the normal climbing areas of San Bartolo. The grades seem fair but have only managed to tick off a few 6a and 6a+.

This is the map for bouldering near tarifa.

I have altered the following maps for myself removing the really easy and the really hard. Any problem below 5+ is just too easy or too green. Anything above a 7a is just a green and forgotten problem. It gets green in Tarifa and nature has reclaimed most of these. They might be classics but only the moss and brambles would know it.

Written by Journo

February 15, 2010 at 10:06 pm