Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for the ‘El Cuarton’ Category

Tangerine 6C+

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I tried this line for about five months over last Summer. Maybe longer. It’s really really thin with micro edges and small lumps for the feet. It’s not much better for the hands. It starts with a jump up to a slopper and then trends upwards and right along a line of small crimps and slopping holds to the end where you find a “medio bueno” (spanish for half ok) hold on the lip. Then to finish you have to do a really hard heal hook rockover for a great hold much further back.

The line might be harder than 6C+ but I haven’t done enough boulders at this difficulty to say.  I think shorter climbers will find it harder reaching between the holds and footholds. But awesome moves all the same and really required a step up in my technique on both body position and feet to send it.

Written by Journo

July 26, 2011 at 2:04 pm

Tangerine Wall El Cuarton

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This is a face with four quality problems on it on the other side of the block on which Bestia is situated. The wall is slightly overhanging and has almost no holds on it. The footwork is hard on everything.

The easiest problem is Fruit pulp on the right hand side which is a mantel shelf problem from a standing start. There is a sit start variation which I can’t do. For once my height is a problem and I’m just too bunched up from the very low starting hold.

The main problem is Tangerine tangent. It is hard from the start with a jump up to a big fairly positive 10 degree slopper. Then its tiny footholds and smears and the holds go from a smallish flat crimp to a rounded lump at the end of the traverse which I cannot hold. I am going back with a footwork change next time and maybe bringing my left hand up to the crimp. Really hard problem and can’t really grade it.  If I had to guess I would say F6C. But it might be harder as the top out could be really hard. The whole problem is total quality and relies on hyper precise footwork and weight distribution. A real puzzle. The other problem on this wall is Tangerine Slide. It starts on the far right and traverses all the way across the wall until it meets Tangent for the top out. I have made the early moves but can’t make the slap from the right hand slopper to the crimp on the ridge. Again can’t grade it but it feels hard.

Finally there is a variation on the left which starts from the starting hold of Tangent but then moves left into the groove. It looks much easier but I would need a spotter as there is a lot of brambles there to catch me if I fell.

Written by Journo

July 15, 2010 at 4:13 pm

Bestia F7B El Cuarton

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This route is a true beast. Massive body tension from mainly blunt but positive holds. The problem is that there is nothing for the feet so it requires a near front lever from both hands and then one hand for several moves. Local guy who has done all the routes in the area called Pin told me it is 7B. I’m too weak to do it so I can’t argue with the grade. However, I have done it from half way and can hold myself on every combination of holds. So maybe, just maybe, if sit underneath it a lot, I might start to get it linked. The top out is also a beast and gave me a month off climbing with a shoulder and neck injury. So it’s going to be a struggle. But as a long-term project it is perfect.

Written by Journo

July 9, 2010 at 5:54 pm