Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for the ‘Alcaidesa’ Category

More Alcaidesa action.

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This is another vid we made last year in Alcaidesa. It’s quite an easy problem but the move over the lip is harder than it looks as you feel quite bunched up and off-balance. The feet don’t go where you’d like so it’s hard to make it look elegant;)

We all agreed that it was probably a soft 6A.

Thanks to James who showed us the problem and cleared the vegetation around the base.

 

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Written by Journo

March 8, 2011 at 5:06 pm

Alcaidesa session

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Near the end of last year, Andy and me headed over to Alcaidesa to check out the newly opened boulders there. Local enthusiast James has been around all the boulders with industrial vegetation removal tools and has cleared space enough to get at the rock without getting ripped to pieces by brambles and other Spanish spined vegetation.

We did a bit of warming up before heading for the most obvious boulder in the whole place and probably the best line of Alcaidesa. It’s a 6B with a hard start and a big pull from a crimp to a crimp with a pull to another crimp and then finishes over the top with a couple more crimpy moves. It favours people who like crimps. Bit of highball feeling near the top as you would definitely hurt something if you fell from the top. Especially at my age!

The rock is super solid and feels great.

James did it first and after watching carefully, I couldn’t claim an on-sight but was able to flash it. Which felt really good. Felt about right for 6B. In the guide it gives it 6C but we agreed this was too high.

Written by Journo

February 15, 2011 at 3:24 pm

Alcaidesa boulder problems

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I have been sent the full directions to the Alcaidesa bouldering area as well as google map directions and guide.

The googlemap links is here

The boulder  with problems 12 to 35 has fallen down. On another blog Komuna Kavra they discuss having found this block on it’s side. Apparently it had some of the best problems of the area on it. I have seen it and it is fully on it’s face now with a scary big hole behind it full of water. Really pleased not to have been on it when it came down. Alcaidesa was too muddy and wet to boulder on Saturday and i’m guessing it will take another couple of weeks of warm sunny weather to dry out.

There are some great looking problems.  84 and 56 both look good. They are on the same block on the left of the map and when you approach the area they are the furthest left boulder. Both are standing starts and there are signs of struggle and rubber on the holds. They both look doable and of a similar style. Get established off the ground and start flailing upwards for increasingly better holds!

The next block along has some great looking problems and some fierce sitting starts. But the top outs are definite high balls and it was hard to judge it as it has a bog underneath it.

The next block of interest is with problems 1 and 2 etc on it. These again look like sitting starts but have some maybe 5+ or 6a small overhanging problems.

I explored the rest of the area and there are some more interesting problems but these three blocks are the closest and the best for early exploration. I try and do them and take some pictures later in the month.

The grades which are agreed by consensus are

84 is 6b/6b+

56 is 6c

I would really appreciate comments from anybody else who has been there as to the grades they think different problems are and any names any of the problems have.

Written by Journo

April 20, 2010 at 1:01 pm

Alcaidesa- a new bouldering area between San Roque and Sotogrande

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Really interested in this area. Apparently there are over 150 problems there. I have translated the following directions from a website. But haven’t gone in search of it yet.

The directions came from a desnivel website and are pretty sketchy.

“Getting there from the N-340, exit “La Alcaidesa” pass the Access to Alcaidesa and reach across from the campsite “La Casita”, turn left, the area is about 3 minutes.”

If anybody else has found it let me know. I have also emailed a guy who says he has recorded 120 problems there. I’ll post up if I get hold of them.

Written by Journo

April 14, 2010 at 4:14 pm