Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for the ‘antagonistic’ Category

Day’s of Power – how to have them and how to avoid an injury!

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I had a day of power yesterday. I felt light and every hold felt large and positive. I felt I could climb anything. Projects were dispatched with ease and I felt a huge reservoir of power.

The last time I felt this excess of strength I did two 7A boulder problems and a 7B problem which had been eluding me for months and it felt easy. But  I injured myself in the process and strained a tendon in my left index finger and my right pinkie. I was so pumped up that I didn’t really notice until the next day. The lesson I learnt is that muscles have a Day of Power, but tendons don’t. Tendons (for the thousandth time) take much longer to get strong than muscles. But when I was pulling on a two finger half pad pocket on the 7B and felt light. I had forgotten that.

But yesterday I remembered it. So I didn’t charge down to my projects and start ripping myself apart. I had a great day felt like a god but kept it mortal for the sake of the tendons, which have only just recovered 🙂

However for those who wish to ignore my warning regarding Day’s of Power here are the secret tricks. But you have been warned. My Day’s of Power always come after a couple of months of intense climbing where I can feel that I am over-climbing a bit and starting to ache. I then take a five days off and do one good day of climbing. But not exhausting. Then another five days without climbing. I don’t drink for a few days before and sleep really well. I didn’t do any other exercise apart from some yoga and antagonistic exercises like push ups etc. Then you will be ready. Basically exercise the opposite of your climbing muscles but leave the climbing guns alone for a few days.

Oh and eat plenty the night before and on the day itself never get hungry. Keep snacking so that body is full of the good stuff. Oh and a bit of protein at lunch seemed to help if you are climbing in the afternoon.

That’s what works for me:)


Written by Journo

August 31, 2011 at 10:39 am


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Bought a powerball sometime ago and have started building up my score. I’m on 11817 at the moment which is OK but feel I need to break through 12k to feel respectable. Gives me a massive pump, especially in my thumb muscle and leaves my forearms feeling used. I also fail to get anywhere near my previous high mark after i have been using it too many days in a row which shows that it needs rest days and that i am becoming stronger. Albeit, at powerball and maybe not climbing. Although there are posts saying that it has helped their climbing. However, it does make my wrist feel a lot better and keeps all the fingers loose and lubricated, which has to be good. I also believe that for endurence just having a pump in my forearm has to help my ability to resist lactic acid. But I’ll report back when I next climb if i notice any powerball effect.

Written by Journo

July 7, 2009 at 2:00 pm

Posted in antagonistic, injuries

Antagonistic training

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Started training twice a week on bench presses and butterflies. This is a great way to prevent injuries, balence the body and make my pecs look bigger. Apparently you can either increase strength my doing under 6 reps, increase endurence by doing 15 to 20 reps or increase bulk by doing the body builders 8 to 12 reps. I’m going for maximum strength on my training by doing under 6 reps. I find weights boring anyway so trying to build my maximum bench press has to be more fun and motivating than cranking out 20 reps. Even more boring is the most weight you can lift in a minute recommend by concept2 the rowing manufacturer.

I’m also doing the wrist curls to even up the forearms. But these are good in front of the tv.

Written by Journo

July 1, 2009 at 4:53 pm

Posted in antagonistic