Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for July 2011

Tangerine 6C+

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I tried this line for about five months over last Summer. Maybe longer. It’s really really thin with micro edges and small lumps for the feet. It’s not much better for the hands. It starts with a jump up to a slopper and then trends upwards and right along a line of small crimps and slopping holds to the end where you find a “medio bueno” (spanish for half ok) hold on the lip. Then to finish you have to do a really hard heal hook rockover for a great hold much further back.

The line might be harder than 6C+ but I haven’t done enough boulders at this difficulty to say.  I think shorter climbers will find it harder reaching between the holds and footholds. But awesome moves all the same and really required a step up in my technique on both body position and feet to send it.

Written by Journo

July 26, 2011 at 2:04 pm

Dandy con Lamparones 7a, San Bartolo

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This is a short and bouldery 7a which I got second go. The first go I went too far right which is almost another route and much much harder. Maybe 7a+. The actual route is fair for the grade and gives sustained climbing for it’s short length.

However, it’s all on the fingers so it moves into power endurance near the end as you never really get a break.

You can find it on the Dandy wall opposite Habitación at San Bartolo. The route Sara 6B is hard for the grade on the left of Dandy and is a three star warm up before a try.

Written by Journo

July 1, 2011 at 3:02 pm