Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for June 2010

Tambore del Diablo 7a (redpoint)

leave a comment »

This is a route with a really hard crux move. The rest is quite easy. But moving up to the crux the holds get suddenly much smaller and really crimpy. The actual crux is quite sustained as you have to move around on some small footholds to get the correct angle on the holds. It’s super technical but enjoyable trying to get the sequence. The actual move I have tried a few times on a top rope but always found too hard. You have to move up using a really small one centimetre crimp lay away for the left hand for a rounded horizontal pinch quite a long way up and to the right. Then get your feet up for the finish of the crux move with a delicate reach up for a good hold. It gets easier but the final move to the next clip are quite delicate and actually require the use of dodgy smear with some distance above the last bolt. So it keeps up the value for quite a while. The end is then easy.

I pre-cliped the first and second bolt. The first bolt is totally useless and just sits at chest level when you are standing on the starting block. The second bolt is situated so that if you fell clipping it you would be impaled on a rocky spike and suffer a spectacular injury resulting in a broken back and probably irreparable internal/external injuries.

The route has been graded 6c+ for a long time but the latest guide has it as 7a. The other person to do it on 8a.nu who has also done 7c found it very hard for a 6c+. So I feel 7a is accurate.

Advertisements

Written by Journo

June 8, 2010 at 9:15 am

Posted in San Bartolo

Tagged with ,

El Club de los escaladores muertos – 6b+ – on sight

leave a comment »

This is a great route at El Bujeo. Big holds with massive reaches and good foot holds.  The route is obvious so it is just thugging up the rib until you run out of holds and that’s the crux. The hardest move is just a big open handed pinch on the rip and step up on big foot holds. Soft for the grade which is strange as every other route there is hard for the grade? Well it maybe that big pulls are my speciality.

El Club de los escaladroes muertos 6b+

The 6c+ to the right is fierce for the grade Historia Triste. It has three distincly hard moves. It has a Font 6B boulder move start with loads of small crimpy lay away moves and foot movements. Then  onto a rest and then a Font 5+ traverse move using a dodgy pinch and a swing, before a sort off balance rest cramped under the roof and then a Font 6A mantle shelf past the lower off for the finish. Fell off the mantle last time I tried. Any route which has the hardest move at the end is always a quality outing!! Apparently it is 6a+ if you miss the boulder move start. But I tried this and think it is a good 6b+. In my opinion the whole route is a safe 7a or more. Definitely the hardest route to link that I’ve tried.  But maybe I’ll downgrade it once I’ve done it ;).

Historia Triste 6c+ (allegedly!!)

Written by Journo

June 3, 2010 at 2:08 pm