Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for May 2010

Bosque2 topos

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Due to a request from Alcaidesa boulder Giacomo I have finally found the motivation to start putting up some of the boulder topos I have taken of the Bosque2 area of San Bartolo. Andy has also opened up some new boulder problems here and I will post up topos of his new boulders later.

Firstly here are some of the classic lines from the first part of this area. The first boulder everybody finds here is 9mm. Here is the line.

Next up are two really nice short problems on the boulder just up from 9mm. They are both really good problems. The second one has a long reach and might be a bit harder for the shorter.

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Written by Journo

May 21, 2010 at 7:51 am

Practice falls and damage to the rope.

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After doing loads of practice falls I’ve started getting a little bit more concerned about the wear and tear on the rope. I’ve found this great site which works out your fall factor based on your weight, length of rope and distance from last bit of gear.

Invaluable!! http://www.myoan.net/climbart/climbforcecal.html

But how many can I do before I need to change the rope???

Written by Journo

May 18, 2010 at 9:43 am

Falling practice

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I am back doing¬†endurance¬†as I have done my three weeks of bouldering and I can feel my muscles getting stronger than my ligaments. So back to mosaico and los buitress for some real routes. I decided to kick off by taking Dave Macleod’s advice of doing some fall practice every time you climb. So on the first time on No es broma a 6b on Mosaico wall I climbed to above fifth bolt and fell onto the fourth three times. On the last pulling up a bit of slack for a bit of extra air time. First time took a bit to let go but did get used to it. Dave reckons that until you find falling boring you’re still scared of it!!

I’m always suprised by how gentle the catch is on falls. It seems the longer it is the more stretch the rope has and the softer the landing. The only bad part is the swing in which hurt my toes at bit. But that was probably because Amy was attached to a tree so her not being dragged up the cliff didn’t soften the blow!

Here is the man himself taking a monster whipper on an E11 right on the last move. Awesome!!

Written by Journo

May 7, 2010 at 8:02 am