Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for March 2010

Redpoint of Toda por la tapia 7a, Vudu Wall, San Bartolo.

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Got a smooth redpoint of a short power endurance 7a at San Barolo. First attempt tried to on-site it but totally blew my fingers on the third clip which is quite power sapping. My subsequent goes were all too weak and I couldn’t link it all together. The route also has a nice little sting in the tail with a final move which requires the placement of the feet on two very high and very small 5mm edges, before a scrunched up reach up for a finishing jug.

Andy, my regular climbing partner, took it easy on his first go up and hung on every bolt, checking out the moves without blowing his strength and then stormed it on his second go!! I was happy for him and gutted for me!!

So despite a hangover from my wifes’ birthday party and bad guts I dragged the whole family up there for another go and did it easily. The whole route felt great and not too hard.


Written by Journo

March 16, 2010 at 12:23 pm

Turntillburn verdict

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I’ve got to give this product the thumbs up. I have noticed a real break through in my strength plateau using this product. Every week I can feel myself getting fitter on it and my forearms reacting really well to it. It’s the only thing I have which actually exercises the forearm muscles in a dynamic rather than static way. For a climber who spends all his time gripping and holding a static position it’s a totally new feeling. I feel that the synergy between this and my other static training is huge.

I found it after looking at Eric Horst’s books on climbing training which go on about heavy finger rolls using a hugely expensive ball bearing sleeved bar bell and massive weights and huge spotting rig. The turntillburn seems to do the same from a rotating pull up bar. Check out the website as it has loads of good articles on it.

Written by Journo

March 8, 2010 at 2:05 pm

Alligator 6c+ redpoint

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Finally nailed Alligator an awesome short power route on Vudu wall. It’s really overhanging and as soon as you leave the ground it’s pumpy power moves. The crux is getting tucked into a really tight drop knee and then reaching up off a so so undercut for the side cut above. It feels really strenuous and while I felt controlled I didn’t feel I could have hung there any longer before I got it. After that, there are only really small footholds and  a big reach for the jug on the right. Then one last rock up and it’s really all over. Just de pump to the top.

Written by Journo

March 2, 2010 at 2:44 pm