Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for February 2010

El Helechal session

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the 6a arete from the ground

Finally found the bouldering area El Helechal near Bolonia in Tarifa. There are apparently loads more problems but we found plenty for a first session. We met a bunch of spanish boulders there who showed us a few of the problems. The sandstone rock has loads of friction and trashes the fingers but it’s an awesome spot. There are loads of problems there with grades from 6a upwards. The hanging arete is a really nice soft 6a. It is an off balance start off good holds and then keeping your balance upto a crimpy lay away with an awkward reach to a blunt pinchy crimpy hold. This allows you to get established on the upper part and make the easy moves to the top and off. Really nice warm up problem.

Same 6a arete.

Written by Journo

February 17, 2010 at 9:20 am

Injury Free

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I once read in a book called “feng shui your life” that when things are going well you shouldn’t be afraid to say, things are going well and fear that doom would befall you. So without fear of jinxing myself with immediate injury I can say I AM INJURY FREE and feel good about it. Not a tweak in any fingers, elbows or shoulders, lower back or knees. I feel good. So far I believe that periodisation is helping with a 3 weeks of power, two weeks of endurance and then a week of rest. The changing pattern seems to place stresses on different parts without causing repetitive strain injuries. I’m also swinging between home wall, turntillburn, and real rock. Perhaps the other major change is my now obsessive antagonistic training with the metolius hand grip exerciser and reverse wrist curls and shoulder rotary cuff exercises.

Written by Journo

February 16, 2010 at 3:12 pm

El Bosque 2 session

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There are a few nice little problems in this area with good quality rock.  On the El Bosque map numbers 4 and 15 were the first to drop on-sight at 5+ and 6a respectively. Number 4 is really easy and number 15 which is called 9mm wasn’t the best warm up as you have to pull off the ground and surge up for a crimp. But while I had a bit of strain holding the crimp it was actually really easy. It was only the cold fingers complaining. Number’s 1 and 2 which are 6a+ and 6a are both great problems. I am gifted with long arms but Andy who was bouldering with me had to put in a lot more effort to reach them. So soft touches for the long armed hard for shorties.

El Bosque 2 in San Barolo.

The best looking problem in number 5 which is 6b but felt much harder. Could start it and see how to finish it but haven’t done it. Looks really hard for the grade. This is on my tick list for my next power session in a weeks time. We had a look at number 9 which for 6c looks hard although on 8a.nu people have put it down as soft.  Maybe it is soft but 6c soft still looks hard to me!

Written by Journo

February 16, 2010 at 3:05 pm

Session in Caos

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Nailed a tricky little problem in Caos sector near Armonica in San Bartolo called Putita which translated means little cunt. Nice. It starts in a pit almost on your back underneath a prow of rock and then you have to work yourself out of the pit with holds on the left of the prow until you surge out for a jug on the lip. With the jug in hand it’s a rockover on a crappy hold for the finishing holds. Took a few go’s but was really quite nice. Good rock and an uncertain finish. Putita 6a. You can see it on the map below of the caos sector at number 12.

Caos Sector in San Barolo.

Written by Journo

February 16, 2010 at 2:50 pm

Bouldering campaign begins

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Spain is full of boulders and Tarifa has quite a few of the good ones. Started off with the following maps of the zones Bosque and Caos near the normal climbing areas of San Bartolo. The grades seem fair but have only managed to tick off a few 6a and 6a+.

This is the map for bouldering near tarifa.

I have altered the following maps for myself removing the really easy and the really hard. Any problem below 5+ is just too easy or too green. Anything above a 7a is just a green and forgotten problem. It gets green in Tarifa and nature has reclaimed most of these. They might be classics but only the moss and brambles would know it.

Written by Journo

February 15, 2010 at 10:06 pm