Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for October 2009

Mental issues

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Failed a 6b+ on-sight yesterday due to bottling it. The crux move has the bolt about a metre below and has a slightly dodgy very slightly off or around vertical fall which would mean coming a bit into contact with the rock. But not too bad. But it was enough to put the fear into me and I bottled it. Finished it eventually and the crux felt fine. The whole route was all off balance and required technique and delicacy rather than power.

So pissed off with my self. If I had gone for the crux and just kept the flow of climbing I would have made it. It all came down to the confidence of having to trust my ability to climb the grade. I’ve always been able to climb the crux on a 6b+ so why didn’t I go for it!! Made me much more determined to focus more clearly on the mental side and keep on trying on-sights with courage, conviction and confidence. Rather than uncertainty and fear.

I had a climbing partner when i was at school who was the same strength as me but had total confidence in his ability to climb.  He would do UK E5 crux moves like Poetry Pink in Llanberris with a ground fall potential from 20 metres up.  But he would do them without a shake. Just focussed and confident.

Over confidence is obviously bad as well. I think it is a good idea to seek out a grade you know you can climb and then really go for it. Not find something above your grade and go for it. This will cause a loss of confidence. So i’m going to start trying to more 6b and 6b+ on-site to actually build that skill.


Written by Journo

October 21, 2009 at 9:11 am

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Endurence challange

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I finished my endurence phase over a week ago and have had a week off before starting my power phase. However, my climbing partner is obsessing about an overhanging endurence sector called Mosaico in Tarifa so i’m back there this Thursday for an endurence fest. I personally think a good three week power session will help my endurance more in the term. So i’ll be working power on the other two days this week and for the next three weeks. This is a cool video of Chris Sharma on a 35 metre endurence fest in Spain. He fails but it’s inspiring that these guys really push it until failure rather than hanging on a quickdraw when they get tired!!!

Written by Journo

October 19, 2009 at 2:20 pm

Tabata protocol with light finger rolls

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 Got my burntillburn bar hanging from my wall. I rest my heels on the floor and start 20 second intervals with my palms towards me. Only made 4 sets which is just two minutes before i was in total agony and couldn’t continue. Ridiculously intense. The ten second interval for rest is only enough to get off the bar, shake your arms and get back on it. Ridiculous!! Next time I will do the turns slower as i really want to get to 8 reps of this in a set. Palms facing away just hurt my elbows too much and didn’t give me the same burn. The intervals only got really hard and worked when i had my palms towards me.

Written by Journo

October 9, 2009 at 12:05 pm