Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for September 2009

Pump rocks

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manotracBought myself a pair of pump rocks or rather Fixe Manotracs, a name which carries no significance for me.  They are awesome for free floating pull up type exercises. I worry about doing more than a few days of finger work a week but want to build up the big pull muscles so i can show off a parties with a one arm pull up. Really useful climbing training!!

The free floating rocks are meant to be better for elbows and shoulders as they move into more natural positions. I use them mainly for either uneven height pull ups in the power training phase or doing five pull ups every minute in the power endurance phase. My aim is to do a one arm pull up on both hands in power and to do twenty minutes and a total of 100 pull ups in the endurance stage.

Written by Journo

September 29, 2009 at 2:15 pm

Top Roped 7a and 7a+

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Totally stocked!! Met some super good local tarifan climber Fernando who had led up a 7a Matador and another 7a+ and I used his ropes on both to top rope them. Did the 7a with only one fall and the 7a+ with a few but once I had got through the early crux it was plain sailing. So now it’s time to gear up, go back and red point them hopefully on the first go. I’m starting to think that a lot of grade pushes might be down to confidence and belief as much as ability.

Written by Journo

September 21, 2009 at 7:03 am

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Rowing for climbing

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I’ve just copied the following text from the concept2 site on rowing training for climbing. I’;m going to start trying this as a once a week workout to compliment my moutain biking and running. I’ve got a bit of achillies tendon ache from too much running so hoping that mixing it up will keep me more motivated and less prone to overtraning/ overuse injuries.

I’m going to try this routine and then maybe tweak it over time to suit my climbing. I’ve broken my monitor so I;ll be using the heart rate monitor to judge the level of difficulty.

Here’s the quote,

Climbing is a lot like a series of intense intervals. The length of the interval may depend on the length of the pitch, your skill and your strength—but most climbers should be prepared for intervals of up to 5 minutes. Try this workout where you “climb” a pyramid of intervals, and then work back down, building the intensity as you go.

The Workout

Workout Goal

Lay the physiological groundwork for a day of bouldering or climbing.

Workout Details

  1. Row easily for 5 minutes to warm-up; get off and stretch briefly if you want to.
  2. Row moderately hard for 1 minute, then row easy for 1 minute.
  3. Row moderately hard for 2 minutes, then row easy for 1 minute.
  4. Row moderately hard for 3 minutes, then row easy for 2 minutes.
  5. Row moderately hard for 4 minutes, then row easy for 3 minutes.
  6. Row moderately hard for 5 minutes, then row easy for 1 minute.
  7. Row moderately hard for 4 minutes, then row easy for 1 minute.
  8. Row moderately hard for 3 minutes, then row easy for 1 minute.
  9. Row moderately hard for 2 minutes, then row easy for 1 minute.
  10. Row moderately hard for 1 minute, then row easy for 1 minute.
  11. Row easily for 5 minutes to cool down.
  12. Stretch.

Total time: 47 minutes

Written by Journo

September 16, 2009 at 8:05 am

Posted in Aerobic, training

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Bouldering in blocs de columbiere

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This is an awesome place between Annecy and Chamonix. Hundreds of unpolished limestone boulders in a beautiful moutain setting. They all have numbers which you can find in the guidebook sold in local tourists offices. The bigger boulders have bolts on top to attach a top rope to. I went without a top rope or a crash pad and it made every boulder feel like a solo. But it was still a great place to visit. I kept myself to the easiest I could find as I’m going to take the advice this time and ease my fingers back in rather than going all out for another injury!

Rufus building up for the lunge.

Rufus building up for the lunge.

Written by Journo

September 14, 2009 at 10:26 am

French trip – climbing on polish

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P1000540Eased myself back into climbing with some climbing in the Alps. Nice and cool with sun. Perfect for climbing. But the polish on the french limestone was horrendous. I saw on Neil Greshams technique site that climbing on polish helps your footwork. Well he might be right but it’s not much fun. I was doing climbs on slabs which had easy moves but felt desperate as every foothold had no friction. However, it did make me more precise with my feet. The worst crag was one next to La Clusaz called Aravis. If i had tried some of the harder routes it might have been better quality. I just eased my fingers back in with some 5+.

Written by Journo

September 14, 2009 at 10:15 am

Posted in climbing

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