Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for July 2009

Turn until you burn

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Just found a link to this new product. I ┬áhave read in a book I am reading about a system of training where you use a really heavy bar bell with ball bearings and lift it up and down by curling and uncurling the fingers. The idea is that it reaches about 160% of your body weight. This causes the growth of forearm muscle much like weight training. This is something which does not happen with climbing or normal climbing training. http://www.turntillburn.ch I’m going to do more research and see if this is a piece of kit worth buying.

Written by Journo

July 15, 2009 at 2:33 pm

starting to load the pinky

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Just read on another blog, http://davemacleod.blogspot.com/ where he quotes from a medical document saying that you should start to slowly load up injured fingers so that they regain strength otherwise you are simply creating a weak scar which is only designed to be as strong as the stuff it has been doing. So if you take months off climbing to allow a full heal of a finger you will have a pully strong enough to type and open a door. So he recommends in his experience loading it slowely during the healing process so it knows to adapt to heavier use. So in light of this, I’m going to start light training this week.

Written by Journo

July 7, 2009 at 2:36 pm

Posted in injuries

powerball

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Bought a powerball sometime ago and have started building up my score. I’m on 11817 at the moment which is OK but feel I need to break through 12k to feel respectable. Gives me a massive pump, especially in my thumb muscle and leaves my forearms feeling used. I also fail to get anywhere near my previous high mark after i have been using it too many days in a row which shows that it needs rest days and that i am becoming stronger. Albeit, at powerball and maybe not climbing. Although there are posts saying that it has helped their climbing. However, it does make my wrist feel a lot better and keeps all the fingers loose and lubricated, which has to be good. I also believe that for endurence just having a pump in my forearm has to help my ability to resist lactic acid. But I’ll report back when I next climb if i notice any powerball effect.

Written by Journo

July 7, 2009 at 2:00 pm

Posted in antagonistic, injuries

slackline

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Just setting up the slackline for the kids (and me). Like to balance. Always fancied myself as the king of balance. It is time to put it to the test!! Just looking for two trees in my garden which don’t have sharp stone too close for injuries.

Here’s a great video of some kids who’ve had some more practice than me.

Written by Journo

July 3, 2009 at 2:26 pm

Posted in slackline.

Antagonistic training

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Started training twice a week on bench presses and butterflies. This is a great way to prevent injuries, balence the body and make my pecs look bigger. Apparently you can either increase strength my doing under 6 reps, increase endurence by doing 15 to 20 reps or increase bulk by doing the body builders 8 to 12 reps. I’m going for maximum strength on my training by doing under 6 reps. I find weights boring anyway so trying to build my maximum bench press has to be more fun and motivating than cranking out 20 reps. Even more boring is the most weight you can lift in a minute recommend by concept2 the rowing manufacturer.

I’m also doing the wrist curls to even up the forearms. But these are good in front of the tv.

Written by Journo

July 1, 2009 at 4:53 pm

Posted in antagonistic

quickdraw decision

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Ok I’m a sucker for the most expensive kit. The winner of my extensive search for a new sport route quickdraw is Blackdiamond’s Livewire Quickdraw. Celebrations at Black Diamond will no doubt be continuing late on into the night. It was a close call between the Camp Nano 23 and Wildcountries Helium. But the blackdiamond won. Here’s why…

I decided that the most important thing was not the weight but how easy it was to clip. The Camp nano looked really light but the Krab looks small and fiddly. I am often quite desperate to clip and go and the thought of fiddling around with the feather light Krab and not being able to clip it gave me sweaty palms. The BD Livewire is heavier but it’s got all those ergonomic grooves and specialised shape for clumsy clippers like me to clip quick and move on for the big jug waiting for me two moves above!

The tape or dogbone is quite a factor for me. The skinny tape on quite a few of these quickdraws made me think about tendonitis and they look painful grabbing one of those if the on-site turns into a redpoint. I often try to on-site and if i fail then i try and redpoint it same day. The thick tape on my petzl’s at the moment is a godsend when i’m hanging on for dear life trying to clip. The BD livewire has got a jug like bit of tape. Oh yeah, i could swing around on that.
Snag free nose. Often found it annoying how hard it is to remove bolts. This bit of marketing really spoke to me. Yep, i want snag free.
Oh and they are cool colours. That sealed the deal. Going to order 10 today. Only problem is they are 18.95 euros. But i figure i’m going to cliping these things every week so they will get better and better value.

Written by Journo

July 1, 2009 at 10:37 am

Posted in equipment