Project Kong

The ambition to on-sight 7a by an older man returning to climbing.

Archive for June 2009

The perfect quickdraw

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Organising a trip through europe visting some big crags with long routes and need a rack of 20 quickdraws. I have about a 12 at the moment and some are from the last time i climbed over 10 years ago.

I thought it was all about lightness. Started just looking for lightness.

Now i read that there are issues regarding the removing or cleaning of quickdraws from the cliff. True I have had problems, many problems cleaning routes after an ascent. It would be nice to have a crab which came away from bolts more easily.
Then apparently the wire ones are not as nice to clip. Well i’m often desperate to clip and move on without wasting energy. So the choice gets harder!
So what is the perfect quickdraw for on-site sports climbing and does it differ from a redpoint quickdraw. Ouch. Yes, it probably does. One should be light and easy to clip the other can be as heavy as you like as it can be preplaced and just sit there.
I have also found other info on how easily the rope runs through the crab. Light quickdraw which adds extra rope drag is worse than a heavy quickdraw through which the rope purrs through without any friction. Ouch. The mind boggles. So time to start some hardcore research and return with answers.
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Written by Journo

June 30, 2009 at 1:59 pm

Posted in equipment

The best post on A2 pulley injuries

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I’ve found the best page on a2 pulley injuries. This is concise and tells you as it is with a really great program for returning to climbing. http://www.nicros.com/archive/A2_pulley_injury.cfm

I’m going to have to take a little break from climbing and come back to it after a month. In the meantime I’m going to do loads of antagonistic exercises like brench preses, butterflys etc and step up the aerobic exercises. So when I return to climbing i’m lighter with a better heart!!

Written by Journo

June 26, 2009 at 10:03 pm

Posted in injuries

Anatomy of the hand

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Every time i research a hand injury i’m left a little in the dark due to the heavy use of technical terms. The following images are the best i’ve found to help illustrate the hands anatomy. The metacarpals are inside the palm and the promimal phalagnes are the first bit of finger etc.

Second bit of trouble i have is over the different name of joints and this illustration was great for those.

Written by Journo

June 26, 2009 at 7:33 pm

Posted in injuries

Wrist tendonitis

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I have had pain in the top of my wrist and base of my palm for about six weeks now. It came on after trying to redpoint a 6c+ called alligator on Vudu wall. The crux move requires a large reach off a semi undercut/side cut which puts a lot of pressure on the wrist to hold the hand in place. Hurt my wrist but i kept on doing it. No real injury just on going pain. I have had some trouble looking at whether it is carpal tunnel syndrome which is apparently present in at least 10% of climbers or simple tendonitis.

So the main difference is that i have no numbness or great loss of strength. So I do not believe it is carpal tunnel syndrome. It does hurt more when i use it more, so I’m guessing it is tendonitis. Used to get the same thing in my elbows when i was younger. I have started doing stretching exercises for the wrist and fingers and doing dumbell exercises to strengthen the antagonistic muscles on the other side of the wrist. Here are the exercises i found.

Written by Journo

June 25, 2009 at 10:18 am

Posted in injuries

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Just read a really interesting article on injuries. It is from the book performance rock climbing. It states that most injuries are the accumulation of many micro injuries which we don’t notice. Apparently we get these all the time and rest days allow them to heal and we never notice them. However, if the rest days aren’t enough and we keep adding further micro injuries to the same site then POP the injury happens. I can see this myself. The time when i hurt a finger is often not really when i would expect it to be hurt. I think, “but i climbed much harder on that finger yesterday”. The reason is that the injury probably started yesterday and today i’m suffering for it. So the lesson is to take a good rest day, or even two after a session involving power moves. After more endurence or power endurence it is less important. I have only been taking one day off after a session on the wall of power but i should probably make it two before a session at San Bartolo.

Written by Journo

June 24, 2009 at 11:42 am

Posted in injuries

finger injuries

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It’s well accepted that muscles grow stronger quicker than ligaments. This is my problem right now. My little finger injury on my left hand and an aching a2 pully on the index finger of my right hand. I’m guessing it’s all down to too much strength increase over ligament strength in too smaller space of time. Going to have to reduce the power training and swap to loads of endurence work for the next month.

Written by Journo

June 22, 2009 at 4:57 pm

Posted in injuries

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No es broma, es kamfor. 6a+. All overhanging and 20 metres long. Real pumpy but without a single hard move. Just keeps on going. Got two quickdraws snagged on my harness half way up which meant i had to hang around freeing them which used up a bit of pump. But feeling the stamina increase so never found any of it too hard. But great workout and starting to like pumpy endurence routes more and more.

Written by Journo

June 22, 2009 at 12:00 pm

Posted in climbing